1. Start with proper framing. Be sure studs are straight with double studs at inside corners to provide adequate nailing surface at adjoining walls.

2. Align all electrical outlets, heating ducts, etc., so they will be flush with the wallboard surface

3. Start with the ceiling, applying Gold Bond Gypsum Wallboard at right angles to joists. To support the board's weight, use a temporary T-brace (see instructions for building a T-brace on the next page).
Nail or screw boards to the joists, using 1-1/ 4" drywall nails for 1/2" wall-board, 1-3/ 8" drywall nails for 5/ 8" wallboard or 1-1/ 4" Type W gypsum drywall screws. Space nails not to exceed 7" on ceilings and 8" on sidewalls, a minimum of 3/ 8" and a maximum of 1/ 2" away from wallboard edges. Screws should be spaced no more than 12" apart on ceilings and 16" apart on sidewalls.

Slightly recess the nail head with the final blow of the hammer. You will want to indent the face paper without tearing it. This action is called "dimpling". Later, these slight depressions will be finished smooth with joint compound.

If you prefer screws to nails, use only coated gypsum board screws (wood screws tear the board) and a screw gun. The gun will place the screw slightly below the face of the paper. You will later fill these depressions with joint compound. Be careful not to break the face paper.

NOTE: When installing wallboard on the ceiling, pay special attention to the "butt" ends. A butt end is the cut end. You can think of it as the short edge of the wallboard. Be sure to stagger butt end joints so that a single joint does not extend all the way across the ceiling (see illustration for proper ceiling installation). Also, be sure that like ends meet together. Tapered edges should meet only tapered edges. Never place a butt end next to a tapered edge.

 You can easily make T-braces and use them to support wallboard panels while driving nails or screws. Start with two 2x4 wood uprights that are 1/ 2" longer than the floor-to ceiling height. Nail a 3' piece of 1x4 board to the long boards, as shown here. Then simply wedge the T-braces between floor and panel and you're ready to fasten the wallboard to the joists.

4. Next prepare to apply upper sidewall panels to abut the ceiling. You will need to know the exact spacing between your wall studs. Using your pencil, mark the position of all studs on the sidewall panels prior to applying board to walls.

5. Install top row of sidewall panels horizontally across studs, holding panel tightly against ceiling board. Space nails a maximum of 8" apart or screws a maximum of 16" apart, starting at the center of the panel and working outward toward the perimeter. 6. Hold the lower sidewall panel snugly against the upper panel. A simple foot-operated panel lifter (as shown) will help hold the panel until nails are driven. Begin nailing near the center of board and proceed to the outside.

NOTE: For added strength when applying wall panels to studs, consider using a quality wallboard adhesive in addition to nailing or screwing.

It's often necessary to cut wallboard to fit short walls, allow for doorways and to leave openings for electrical outlets, etc. The steps are as follows:
1. Measure carefully. Then mark the wallboard with a pencil.

2. Using a straightedge and utility knife, score the wallboard on the face paper side along the pencil line(s).

3. Snap board along the score over the edge of a solid support. A quick action produces the best results.

4. Using your utility knife, cut through the back paper.

5. Smooth the rough edges with a rasp.

Your Patch Kit can also be used to finish one or more wallboard joints. However, if you're planning to finish several wallboard joints, we recommend using Gold Bond ® Easy FinishTM Ready-Mix Joint Compound or Gold Bond ® Easy FinishTM Lightweight Ready-Mix Joint Compound in either a 12 or58 lb. pail, or a 47 lb. carton. Finishing a wallboard joint is relatively simple if you follow these basic instructions:

1. Apply a uniform layer, 4" wide, of com-pound to the joints.

2. Center tape over the joint and press firmly into place with the knife.

3. Remove excess Joint Compound, leaving a sufficient amount under tape for adhesion to wallboard.

4. Let joint dry for 24 hours.

5. First finish coat: Apply a thin coat of compound and feather out 3" to 4" on each side of the tape. Let compound dry thoroughly (approximately 24 hours).

6. Second finish coat: Apply a second thin coat, feathering out 8" to 10" on each side of the tape. Let dry approximately 24 hours.

7. Sand compound with a damp sponge to remove imperfections and blend with existing surface.

8. Prime before decorating.

INSIDE CORNERS: Apply 2" band of Joint Compound to both sides of inside corner. Crease tape alongscore line and press firmly into corner. Remove excess Joint Compound, leaving a sufficient amount under tape for adhesion to wallboard. Apply finish coat to one side of corner. Allow to dry. Then apply finish coat to the other side of corner. Allow to dry.

OUTSIDE CORNERS: Cornerbead should be nailed 9" o. c. through each flange with nails opposite. Apply Joint Compound over the cornerbead flange. First coat should be approximately 4" wide; second coat 6" to 10" wide on each side of corner.

PRIMING: For best decorating results, prime all repaired surfaces with a good quality, flat, white alkyd paint before decorating.

PAINTING: To insure a top quality job, we recommend two coats of a quality paint be applied (primer and finish or two coats of finish) according to the recommendations of the paint manufacturer.

With your Gold Bond Easy Finish Patch Kit, you can easily handle several types of gypsum wallboard repairs. By following the simple instructions in this brochure, you can patch holes and cracks, repair nail pops and torn wallboard face paper, and finish wallboard joints.
Things to remember before you get started:

1. Joint Compound may require slight mixing with a clean utensil.

2. Be sure to apply Joint Compound at temperatures above 50°F with adequate ventilation to assure proper drying.

3. Remove loose or blistered paint, wallcovering, wallboard paper, or plaster from damaged surfaces before repairing.

4. Protect the Joint Compound from freezing.

5. Your Easy Finish Patch Kit is recommended for interior surfaces only.

1. Using the finishing knife, cover the crack or hole with a uniform layer of Joint Compound.

2. Cut tape larger than the hole; then center tape over the crack or hole and press tape into the Joint Compound with the finishing knife.

3. Remove excess compound with the knife, leaving a sufficient amount under the tape to allow adhesion to wallboard.

4. Cover with a uniform layer of Joint Compound.

5. Let dry 24 hours. 6. Sand the compound with a damp sponge to level the surface.

 (Do not attempt to patch holes larger than 2-1/ 2" in diameter)

1. Using the finishing knife, cover the crack or hole with a uniform layer of Joint Compound.

2. Cut paper tape to horizontally bridge the crack or hole. Center tape over the crack or hole and press tape into the Joint Compound with the finishing knife.

3. Remove excess compound with the knife, leaving a sufficient amount under the tape to allow adhesion to wallboard.

4. Apply Joint Compound over the first piece of paper tape.

5. Now place the second piece of tape vertically over the first in a criss-cross pattern and press the tape into the Joint Compound.

6. Remove excess Joint Compound.

7. Cover with a uniform layer of Joint Compound.

8. Let dry 24 hours.

9. Apply a final coat of Joint Compound if the tape is still visible beneath the com-pound.

10. Sand the compound with a damp sponge and blend with the existing surface.

11. Prime before decorating.

If you notice a protrusion or bump in the wallboard surface directly over a nail head, this is called a "nail pop". The nail has pulled away from the joist or stud. Before repairing the surface, you will first need to secure the wallboard in the following manner:

1. Drive a new nail 1-1/ 2" away, above the popped nail, into the stud. When driving the nail, you want to indent the face paper without tearing it. This action is called "dimpling".

2. Now drive and "dimple" the popped nail.

Now you're ready to smooth Joint Compound over and around each nail head following these basic instructions:

1. Cover the slight depressions or "dimples" with Joint Compound.

2. Let dry 24 hours.

3. Sand the compound with a damp sponge and blend with the existing surface. Prime before decorating.

When the face paper of wallboard is torn, usually as a result of removing previously installed wall covering, the wall is left rough and uneven. Repairing this situation is easy.

1. Peel and remove all loose face paper.

2. Coat damaged area with a primer/ sealer using a paint brush.

3. Using your finishing knife, apply Joint Compound to the damaged area and feather the edge to blend smoothly with the existing surface.

4. Let dry 24 hours

5. Apply a second coat of Joint Compound if your repair is highly visible.

6. Let dry 24 hours.

7. Sand the compound with a damp sponge and blend with the existing surface. Prime before decorating

When a sizable wall or ceiling area has been damaged, repair it using gypsum wallboard, joint compound and joint tape from National Gypsum Company. Gold Bond products work together to deliver smooth wall and ceiling surfaces. And to make proper finishing of wallboard joints easy for anyone.

Begin by cutting back the damaged wallboard to the nearest studs or joists. Be sure that half of each stud or joist is exposed, so that you can nail the wallboard to it. Use a utility knife to make cut edges as straight and smooth as possible.

Measure the thickness of the existing wallboard and purchase a corresponding size sheet. In most instances, the wallboard you will be repairing is either 1/ 2" or 5/ 8" board.

Using a 6" finishing knife and Gold Bond Ready-Mix Joint Compound, apply joint compound directly over the joint created between the existing wallboard and the new piece; then embed Gold Bond Joint Tape in the joint. Press down with the knife, wiping excess compound away. Let material dry thoroughly (approximately 24 hours) before proceeding.

1. Carefully measure the area to be repaired. Then transfer these measurements to the wallboard sheet, marking it with a pencil.

2. Using a straightedge and utility knife, score on the face paper along the pencil lines.

3. Snap board along the score over the edge of a solid support. A quick action produces the best results.

4. Using your utility knife, cut through the back paper. Smooth the rough edges.

1. Check to see that the replacement piece fits snugly into the existing wallboard surface.

2. Nail wallboard to studs or joists. Space nails not to exceed 8" apart, a minimum of 3/ 8" and a maximum of 1/ 2" away from edges. Slightly recess the nail head with the final blow of the hammer. You will want to indent the face paper without tearing it. This action is called "dimpling". Later, these slight depressions will be finished smooth with joint compound.

You can download the Complete National Gypsum Do-it-Yourself guide on installing, finishing, and repairing gypsum wallboard here